With the rise of existentialism, new deadly technologies, and cynicism in the West, artists, directors, musicians, and writers began to shift their bright outlook of the future to something more ominous. A future that looked far more dystopian than utopic; potentially apocalyptic. Nevertheless, these “negative Nancys” used their morbid warnings and prophecies of the future to create classics that have shaped modern society. You’ve probably enjoyed a couple these works. To name a few, Blade Runner, Orwell’s 1984, Brave New World, Kubrick’s Dr. Strangelove, AKIRA, Children of Men, hell ….even James Cameron’s Terminator. (Fuck Terminator Genisys).
High fashion’s answer to this neo gothic cultural mind state was deconstruction. The artists of the fashion world began to deconstruct and re-imagine modern clothing with monochromatic color palettes, draped and distressed garments, with a focus on nuanced and highly tailored pieces. Think Kylo Ren meets Neo from the matrix. The equivalent of modern experimental music. This shit was dope and came out of nowhere in the early 90’s and was even more prevalent today. Fashion Gods like Owens, Rei Kawakubo, Margiela, and Demeulemeester experimented with this style throughout their careers with other designers creating collections based off of this entire premise. (Even Kanye tried kind of...) One of the most forward thinking designers to offer a fresh new perspective on this experimental style is the eclectic and uniquely talented Boris Bidjan. The young and talented designer BBS has been making waves over the past 5 years, earning the prestigious honour of showing at Paris Fashion week. Extremely insightful, BBS has offered us a new way to think about the deconstruction of garments. His hand crafted clothing are created with a high level of purpose, providing us a fantastic insight on the power of duality; in his case order vs. chaos.
What makes him unique, (and why I love his work so much) is his ability to take the street energies of hip-hop and skate culture and seamlessly weave them into his presentations to tell beautifully dark narratives. One of my favorite moments, is where he used the late J-dilla’s legendary production as the backdrop for a promo for his “11” campaign. A hypebeast’s wet dream.
Boris Bidjan Saberi’s eponymous label creates clothing for the modern man and woman. Pieces range from industrial monochromatic high-top sneakers to post apocalyptic distressed leather jackets.
A majority of Saberi’s collections echo the very basic natural elements. The clothes are asymmetrically layered with monotone colors with various textures to create a contrast that is fantastic to look at and even doper to wear. In his most recent 2016 Spring collection, Boris took it a step further and introduced a very wearable military-noir collection that remained true to his contemporary aesthetic. The hoodies, vests, and jackets were seamlessly tailored to fit the body of the models in his show; minimalistically done, with a hip hop flair. A collection that would be perfect for the upcoming Blade 2 film. Even looking at his most recent women’s 2015 collection, the garments are beautifully dark, presenting clothing and imagery that is truly dystopian but sexy. Something you wouldn’t mind seeing your girlfriend walk around in.
Saberi’s progress with each collection has been tremendous. As as young designer, his aesthetic continues to develop for the better, proving that he has something to say in the Parisian fashion world. His work parallels an aphotic aspect of contemporary culture’s subconscious. Boris Bidjan Saberi prides himself in paying attention to handcrafted details and in working with inexhaustible passion and he has yet to stray from this ideal.
PS (FUCK TERMINATOR GENISYS)
Words | Edio